The Crafty Traveler

When you think of the West Coast wine scene, one place comes to mind. Napa is the king of the California wine world (rightly so), but it’s far from the only region producing premier wines. One of the lesser-known areas (though that’s changing quickly) a bit further south is Paso Robles.

Paso (which is what you should call it if you want to blend in with the locals) is quite different from the extravagance that comes with Napa. A small, sleepy downtown with an agricultural backbone creates a more casual vibe than its northern neighbors. It sets the scene for a couple of relaxed days with a glass in hand – and I’m here to show you what to fill it with.

It was discovered some time ago that Paso Robles shares a similar geography with France’s Rhône Valley. This means you’ll find an abundance of Rhône-style wines produced from grapes like Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (don’t worry, it’s still easy to track down a California Cab as well). This favorable climate has fueled a rapidly growing wine scene – one that not long ago had around 100 wineries and now boasts more than 400. In other words, you have options.

Before you book your tastings, you’ll need to decide where to stay. With growth has come an expanding list of hotel options. For upscale accommodations, The Piccolo is a solid choice (if not slightly polarizing). Rooftop bars and champagne vending machines don’t exactly scream Paso, but that’s often what happens when a place gains popularity. For something with more local character, check out the old-school Cheval or its little sister, The Stables – a converted, cozy motel with community fire pits in the parking lot.

Choosing tasting reservations can get overwhelming quickly with so many options. Paso now offers everything from high-end experiences to small, family-run wineries. Aim to book a mix to get a feel for the region’s diversity.

If stunning facilities are your thing, look no further than Booker. A newly opened, state-of-the-art tasting room sets the stage for an Instagram-worthy start to your day. Fortunately, it’s not all style over substance as just as much care goes into what’s in the glass. Be sure to order the “White” (yes, that’s the name, not the style) – one of the best whites I had in the area.

The east and west sides of Paso offer different climates and, in turn, different wine profiles. While many of the more well-known names are on the west side, don’t overlook the wilder east side. Caelesta is a great place to experience the contrast. This family-run spot produced some of my favorite wines of the trip (don’t miss Parallax, their GSM blend), all in a relaxed setting. Have a few hours? Book a truffle hunt alongside your tasting. You read that right.

Many vineyards here are quite small, allowing for more personalized tasting experiences. Torrin is a perfect example. Book early to secure a high-touch hospitality experience paired with extremely small-batch bottlings. Personalized tasting menus, one-on-one insights, and palpable passion await.

To get a true sense of the area’s agricultural roots, Hawks Hill Ranch is an ideal place to end your day. Take the scenic drive from Torrin (and download directions beforehand as cell service is spotty) to a low-key tasting room pouring a wide range of wines. With over 1,000 feet of elevation change on the property, the ranch hosts multiple microclimates and a diverse lineup of varietals. For years, this estate supplied grapes to other wineries; now, they’re producing their own standout wines served with a smile and a few sheep (they’re farmers first, after all).

At some point, you’ll need a meal between tastings. Paso’s culinary scene is growing alongside its wine industry, but one experience stands above the rest. Somm’s Kitchen is a reservation you should make as soon as you read this. One counter, 16 seats, one service per night, and a one-man show – that’s a lot of ones.

Run by Ian Adamo, a sommelier who travels the world teaching others about wine (while building an enviable personal collection), Somm’s Kitchen will likely change how you think about wine entirely. Bringing an often-elevated industry down to earth, Ian shares his bottles generously alongside meals he prepares himself. One of those memorable food and beverage experiences we chase.

For other elevated meals, check out Les Petites Canailles and Grace & Rose (if nothing else, for their extensive and impressive wine lists). For something more casual, Finca serves modern Mexican cuisine on a cozy front porch (don’t miss the weekend only breakfast burritos).

If you’re ready for a break from wine (variety is the spice of life, after all), Paso delivers there too. For the best cocktails in town, head to Eleven Twenty-Two Speakeasy (I would show you pictures but no photos allowed – embrace it). If you like your drinks with a side of chemistry, The Remedy serves up spirits and science tableside.

It wouldn’t be a crafty traveler guide without a spot to grab a beer (it just usually doesn’t come this far down the page). Lucky for you, an iconic name in the game calls Paso home – Firestone Walker. Crafting authentic ales for 25 years, Firestone Walker has stayed true to themselves while becoming a national brand (and they throw a first-class festival here once a year).

For an all-in-one grand finale, spend some time (or even a full day) at Tin City. This industrial-style complex just south of town features more than 25 wineries, plus a brewery, cidery, distillery, pasta bar, ice cream shop, sandwich stop, and even a Michelin star dining experience. Consider it a Crafty Traveling playground.

Make a reservation at Benom, run by a pair of brothers from France. This passion project highlights beautiful wines shaped by family heritage. Then head next door (literally one wall over) to Levo. A relaxed, welcoming vibe sets the stage for wines that don’t take themselves too seriously but still pack a punch, with hospitality to match.

Paso is a place that is rapidly getting on people’s radar (that includes you now). There are pros and cons to that kind of growth, but at the moment, it makes for a well-balanced weekend destination. California has no shortage of stunning places to explore, but next time you’re cruising down Highway 1 (which should already be high on your list), take a turn inland. A world-class glass of red is waiting for you.