The Crafty Traveler

Puerto Vallarta is not at all what I expected. It had never been high on my travel wish list, mostly due to my own flawed expectations of the vibe here. My head was naively filled with visions of a Señor Frogs–type scene (no offense to Señor Frogs, which you can find here if that’s your cup of tea). I was wrong.

Sure, there are plenty of condos and global chain transplants. Tourism is undeniably the city’s engine. But there’s so much more – if you’re willing to look. Lucky for me, I’m always up for a deep dive, especially when it leads to some of the best street tacos around.

One of the biggest surprises here is the geography. I knew the beaches would provide the backdrop for all that tourism, but I didn’t realize that just beyond town, the Sierra Madre Mountains rise dramatically. Together, they create a narrow coastal plain that Puerto Vallarta’s neighborhoods cling to. The further south you go, the narrower it gets – which brings me to my first tip for a more authentic Vallarta experience: head south.

After landing at the somewhat overwhelming airport, fuel up before your drive down the coast. Just across the bridge sits Tacon de Marlin, home to seared seafood burritos that set the tone for your trip (already exceeding expectations). While there’s no shortage of high-end hotels nearby, Puerto Vallarta is a city where Airbnb can unlock unique experiences. Find a cliffside spot in Conchas Chinas, as far south as the roads take you. From there, you’re perfectly positioned next to my favorite neighborhoods – Zona Romántica up through 5 de Diciembre.

Every now and then, the best way to get to know a neighborhood is through a food tour. I’ll admit, I’m not usually a food-tour person. I prefer to research (hence, this blog) and explore on my own. Too often, tours skip authenticity. Vallarta Local is different. They’re 100% Mexican-owned, women-owned, socially responsible, and zero-waste. That checks a lot of boxes. Their taco tour through Zona Romántica is a perfect half-day adventure. You’ll hit off-the-beaten-path stands and local eateries, many of which perfect just one taco recipe handed down through generations. Think proper birria, tacos de cabeza (yes, exactly what it sounds like), and one of the flakiest fish tacos you’ll ever taste at Marisma – all served with history and context you’d be hard-pressed to find on your own.

By now, you’ve probably taken a nap on the beach (a pro move after a taco tour). Time to keep the local hits coming. Walk toward 5 de Diciembre and stop at Puerto Café for the best pick-me-up in town. Orange cold brews and natural wines (depending on your mood) are crafted from locally sourced beans in a space that begs you to linger (but you can’t, you’ve got places to be).

If tacos are still calling your name, brave the line at Pepe’s Tacos for arguably the best al pastor in town (a hot debate – try several and decide for yourself). Charred pastor, fresh salsas, and cold cervezas – This is Vallarta. If you want an oceanfront setting, grab a table at El Solar. Ceviche, mezcal margaritas, and DJs provide the soundtrack to an unforgettable sunset.

No vacation night is complete without dessert and a nightcap. Julio’s Churros, little more than a street stand, churns out thin, crispy churros that hit the spot. And since no guide of mine skips a brewery, Yambak has you covered. Grab a rooftop pour before heading to El Colibrí, the best cocktail bar in town. Think speakeasy in a jungle, and then continue thinking about why you didn’t come to Vallarta before now.

Day 2: Go even further south (yes that is possible, it just requires a different form of transportation).Enter Jets Adventures. Their “Mexican Moonshine” boat tour immediately caught my booze-forward attention. The trip takes you to three secluded beach towns, accessible only by water. While the coastal cruise alone is worth it, the real highlight is a crash course in Raicilla.

Puerto Vallarta sits in Jalisco, famous worldwide for tequila, but tequila is just one branch of Mexico’s vast agave family. To qualify as tequila, only blue agave can be used, along with a strict set of rules. Raicilla, on the other hand, can be made from a wide variety of wild and cultivated agaves. The result is a spirit with flavors that shift dramatically from mountain villages to coastal towns, depending on the plants and methods used. Each community crafts its own expression, a true reflection of terroir. Culture in a cup.

These are the kinds of days that prove how food and drink can teach you more about a place than you ever expected. Naturally, you’ll close your final night in Vallarta with more food and beverage. After disembarking, head to Bar La Playa for cocktails that cure your sea legs. Sidewalk seating, friendly staff, and a strong happy hour set the tone.

For your farewell meal, you’ve got choices. Splurge on the tucked-away tasting menu at Tintoque. Or keep the taco theme alive at La Mucca Taqueria (owned by Tintoque’s team) for elevated takes on classics. Still on the hunt for the best al pastor? Line up at Pancho Takos, hit the locals’ favorite Las Güeras, or check out the underrated but excellent Tacos Sonorita. Let me know who earns your gold medal.

Puerto Vallarta is a place that rewards curiosity. Sure, you could rent a condo, drink Coronas, and call it a week. But if you dig deeper, you’ll uncover the layers that make this city unforgettable. How do you find them? Follow the food and beverage trail, and follow me south down the coast. I’ll be waiting – taco in hand.