The Crafty Traveler

Oaxaca is having a moment, and it’s long overdue. That mezcal margarita you are sipping on right now (thirsty yet?) likely starts with a spirit from Oaxaca. Those mole enchiladas you had last weekend (hungry yet?) were likely inspired by an Oaxacan recipe. We are talking about a state with a food and beverage scene that is internationally known yet remains mostly undiscovered. Better late than never.

Being undiscovered has its advantages. Oaxaca still has an instant authenticity to it. Oaxaca City (the starting point for many travelers, including myself) is far from overdeveloped. Locals heavily outweigh tourists at any turn. For those tourists that do find their way here (which is now you one day), a food and drink destination unlike any other is waiting. You have my attention (and now you have my itinerary).

Day 1

To get here, a layover is likely. If you’re doing it right, make that layover Mexico City (and if you have 48 hours to spare, I got your back). Upon arrival, the first step is to set up shop for the weekend. Nana Vida to the rescue. You can find “trendier” spots in town, but Nana Vida keeps that authenticity in the air by providing high level hospitality and a location on the outskirts of the city (forcing you to walk around town to soak it all in). Welcome pours of mezcal and gifts of cacao nib infused soap give you an idea of the experience here.

If you get in early enough, walk towards Plaza del Camen to track down the streetside Tacos de Comal. Hand-rolled tacos are the name of the game here. Try yours stuffed with chile rellenos and Quesillo, one of many regional specialties you will be seeking out while here (think the kind of string cheese that will make you throw away that Sargento when you get home).

Now that we have kicked off the food side of things, let’s get the beverage part under way (family friendly to start but don’t worry – that buzz isn’t far behind). If you need a pick-me-up, grab a cortado at Kiyo Café or cappuccino at Sagrado Filemón. To get a sense of the role that chocolate plays for the people here, head to Rito Chocolateria for decadent drinking chocolate (or to get introduced to what chocolate ice cream should actually taste like). For your first of many corn-centric encounters, head to La Atoleria por Tierra Del Sol to try Atoles – a hot masa-based beverage with ancestral origins. Order the flight (and wonder why you didn’t book a flight to Oaxaca before now).

Now we get to that afore mentioned buzz, and Sabina Sabe is the spot to make that happen. A comfortable and down-to-earth venue highlights the versatility of Mezcal with balanced and beautiful cocktails. Cozy up to the small bar in the back or grab a table to the side and order some small plates to pair with your pour. I recommend another local specialty (again-it’s why you’re here): tacos de chapulines (edible grasshoppers). If you didn’t eat bugs, you didn’t come to Oaxaca.

Since you likely don’t have time to explore the entire state of Oaxaca, your dinner spot will bring the entire state to your plate. At Levadura de Olla, Chef Thalía Berrios (who recently earned a Michelin star for this spot, at the age of 28) explores the food from all corners of Oaxaca and continues that authentic experience you came here for. Simple, seasonal, elevated ancestral cuisine shines here and amplifies the flavors you can only find in Oaxaca. Order the native tomato salad to start and you will see what I mean (it’s almost too pretty to eat, almost…).

Day 2

It’s not often that I put my travel plans into the hands of someone else, but here I knew it had to happen. When you follow as many food and beverage social media accounts as I do, you are bound to come across Omar Alonso (@oaxacking on Instagram). Omar runs food and mezcal tours (we must be related somehow) and he truly knows everyone in town (no exaggeration). Omar was born and raised here before emigrating to California where he worked in the hospitality industry. Realizing how special his home was, he came back to introduce others to what makes Oaxaca unique – and nobody does a better job highlighting this place.

Book Omar’s walking food tour (as soon as it becomes available, because it will sell out) and your day is likely to start at Chef Barrios other restaurant – Cocino de Humo (smoke kitchen). A place that highlights many of the culinary traditions of the area in an authentic kitchen setting, it feels more like an experience than a restaurant (and if you don’t start your day here, book it for dinner – an intriguing and educational meal not to be missed).

The soul of Oaxaca runs through its markets. There are several around town, and while exploring them is exhilarating, it can also get overwhelming quickly. Omar is here to help. As he says hello to every person you pass, he also takes you to find the best deep friend tacos, provides pallet cleansers of ripe mango with chile, and introduces you to the infamous Dona Vale and her memelas (savory corn cakes cooked on the comal).

Potential other spots on the tour include well-crafted cocktails at Criollo, trays of ice cream at Nieves la Oaxaquena, or an introduction to the up-and-coming Mexican wine scene at Cuarto de Vino. Two things are required for this tour – an open mind and an empty stomach (two things that will serve you well for most travels).

After your tour, a siesta may sound appealing, but it’s time to power through. Omar likely started your day with a morning pour of mezcal (breakfast of champions) and now it’s time to dive a bit deeper. La Mezcaloteca is a showcase for traditional mezcals from across the region. Pouring bottles that can only be found here, often from small family run palenques (distilleries), a tasting reservation here will open your eyes to the spectrum of flavors mezcal can send your way (if you assume all mezcal is smokey, it’s time to move past that mindset). This tasting is also a perfect appetizer for Day 3 (spoiler alert-it’s all mezcal all the time).

As dinnertime approaches, so do your options. As mentioned before, Cocino de Humo should top the list if you didn’t start your day here. Another option off the beaten path is Xaox, a contemporary take on Oaxacan cuisine with an international flair. For an escape into an enchanting courtyard meal (with mole flights on the side), Los Danzantes is your answer. This option also sets you up perfectly for your nightcap at Selva (located above Los Danzantes), one of the top cocktail bars in North America. Mid-century vibes with art on the wall and in the glass. Order the self-titled Selva cocktail made with mezcal, hoja santa (holy herb), and Oaxacan cheese (you read that right). Oaxaca in a glass.  

If that one cocktail turns into several, don’t worry – street food is here to save the day. A late-night specialty here are Tlayudas – crispy oversized tortillas topped with grilled meats and more. Head to La Chinita to try their well-celebrated version or line up with the locals at Mina y Bustamante. Drunk food at its finest.

Day 3

Here is where we explore the magic of mezcal. Ninety percent of the world’s mezcal is produced in Oaxaca, and you would be remiss not to get out of the city and see where that magic happens. This is where having another assist is the move – and Ana Blanco is the expert to show you the way.

Ana (@anita_j_b_ on Instagram) works with Recia, a group providing one-of-a-kind private mezcal experiences. An Oaxacan native herself, she has traveled throughout the Mezcal regions for years and worked closely with traditional Mezcal families (the perfect résumé for your tour guide).

Ana will not only introduce you to these families, but she will also take you into the agave fields to learn about the process and traditions of mezcal from Maestros Mezcaleros who have worked this land for generations. You’ll discover the diversity of wild agaves that grow in this region and taste a wide range of artisanal mezcales – each one a unique expression of time, place, and knowledge.

Few people realize there are more than 270 different types of agave plants, some of which take decades to mature and can grow taller than you are. Each brings different flavors to the table. One of the key differences between mezcal and tequila is the agave itself. Tequila must be made from Blue Agave (and is governed by many more rules), while mezcal can be made from any agave. That freedom is why the range of mezcal expressions is so vast.

Most of the mezcal distributed in the United States is commercially produced and focused on a smoky profile – hence many of our preconceived notions about the spirit. But there truly is a mezcal for everyone. Sweet, herbal, spicy, lactic (yes, I had one that tasted like cheese) – it’s remarkable how the people who care for this land transform plants into some of the best mezcal in the world, much of which you must come here to experience (they rightly keep the good stuff for themselves).

Ana can take you to a variety of palenques across the region. You might spend a morning with Maestro Mezcalero Don Pablo, exploring his land and tasting the many expressions of his No Le Digas A Papá Mezcal Ancestral. There’s nothing commercial about this setup, and nothing better than a self-serve table full of mezcal, each bottle tasting better (and completely different) than the last.

You can also visit Rambha Mezcal, a rarity in this world and the brand of Rosario Ángeles Vásquez. Traditionally, men do the distilling in this industry, and palenques are passed down through generations. Maestra Rosario bucks both of those trends. With no mezcal producers in her family history, her decision to make mezcal was entirely her own after leaving a career as a teacher. Her passion is paying off with special small batch mezcales you won’t find anywhere else (don’t miss the one infused with cacao). Mezcal mindset: shifted.

Now you’re ready to capture the moment Oaxaca is providing. When you do, embrace the culture, history, culinary scene, and – most importantly – the people who make this place so special. Let’s approach this moment with appreciation and authenticity, lifting up (not changing) Oaxaca and shining a light on what makes it extraordinary. And the next time you order a margarita, make it a mezcal one.