Scottish Highlands, Served Neat: A Scenic, Scotch-Filled Travel Guide To Speyside

Scotland is special. Often overlooked in many people’s United Kingdom itineraries, it’s time to extend your next trip to include it. If the scenery and Scotch aren’t enough to pull you in, the people will do the trick. They’re some of the kindest and most welcoming folks I’ve come across in my travels – genuinely excited to show you around. Whatever pub you pull up to (and I’ve shared some of my favorites below), expect to make a new friend before you leave.

Luckily, you and I are already friends – so now you know to move Scotland up your list. And as always, I’m here to help guide you, pint in hand.

Starting Point: Stirling

If this is your first time in Scotland, start in Edinburgh. It’s a city that must be seen in person and fortunately for you – my guide to this place already exists.

Heading out from Edinburgh, make Stirling your first stop for a bit of culture for breakfast. The medieval old town is worth exploring for half a day. Wander up to Stirling Castle, which sits high atop volcanic rock and overlooks the town (including the National Wallace Monument for you Braveheart fans).

From here, you’ll be able to spot where your next pour will be. Walk back down the hill and get a sense of the town while stopping at Nicky Tams, one of Stirling’s oldest pubs (though you should also check out the aptly named Settle Inn, which holds the title of oldest). A pie and a pint of real ale will power you through.

Grab some caffeine at Unorthodox Roasters when you’re done – then it’s back on the road.

Pitlochry: A Riverside Retreat

About an hour away is your destination for the night: Pitlochry. This picturesque riverside town hits the spot after time in the big city. If you arrive early enough, visit Blair Athol Distillery for a tour and tasting. It’s not often you find a distillery within walking distance of your bed – take advantage.

Dinner is at The Auld Smiddy Inn, a former blacksmith’s shop turned elevated pub featuring local ales and seasonal dishes. Pitlochry is the kind of place where a bed and breakfast just feels right. There are dozens to choose from, but check out Northlands or Craigmhor to start. The Knockendarroch Hotel is another great option if you’re looking for a few more amenities.

Scenery and Sips

It’s scenery time, something Scotland is not short on. Today’s the day to roll the windows down and soak it all in. On your way north, stop for a pastry at Blair Atholl Watermill, an operating water mill that’s been around since the 1500s.

If your thirst for craft beer starts early (no judgment from me – I’ve been there), the small but mighty Wasted Degrees Brewing is nearby and opens early. Solid pizza, too, if you need one for the road.

Now you’re off, driving alongside Cairngorms National Park. The largest national park in the UK offers all kinds of things to do but as you know, that’s not the sweet spot you’re coming to this blog for. For us, this is pure scenery as we search for single malts.

The Whisky Trail

After a few hours of rolling green hills, it’s time for a dram. There’s no shortage of distilleries in this part of the world, and I am sending you to some of my favorites.

Your first stop should be Glenfarclas Distillery. In a world where big conglomerates have bought up most of the Scotch around, Glenfarclas remains independent. Dramatically situated and steeped in history, this is where you start to learn what makes Scotch special. Their focus is on sherry-cask maturation, a traditional method in this region, and none do it better. If you can, go all in and book the Five Decades Tour & Tasting. Proof that patience pays off.

You won’t have to travel far for your next stop: GlenAllachie Distillery. For years, it produced Scotch that was shipped off to be blended by other brands (a common practice). But in 2018, distilling legend Billy Walker saw its potential and took over, crafting its own stunning range of single malts which taste even better on site.

Follow the legend of Billy to my last must-visit: Benriach Distillery. Billy helped shape this brand into what it is today and it is now under the watchful eye of Master Blender Rachel Barrie. Founded in 1898, Benriach stands out for its rare use of peat (uncommon in this area), its triple-distilled whiskies, and its on-site malting floor – a craft most distilleries now outsource. Take a tour, taste everything they’ll let you, and grab any distillery-only bottles they have in stock (I’ll send you my shipping address for one).

Final Stop: Elgin

Your path through the Highlands culminates in Elgin, a town that’s not exactly on the tourist trail (this works to your advantage). It’s your chance to spend time with locals (and as I’ve said, these are people you want to spend time with).

While in town, don’t miss Gordon & MacPhail. This independent bottler started as a grocery store and has been purchasing whisky from other distilleries for over 125 years, aging it themselves to create stunning, rare single malts – many likely older than you. Book a tasting.

If you’ve had your fill of real ale, check out Against the Grain, a modern beer bar you didn’t expect to find here. When hunger strikes, Ada offers Mediterranean fare, while The Drouthy Cobbler keeps your pub-food streak going strong.

Rest your head at the Sunninghill Hotel, if only for their stellar single malt selection, and realize that Scotland has now become one of your favorite places.

From here, you can head over to Inverness and the islands beyond, loop back south, or just buy some property and never leave (just make sure it has a guest room for when I swing by).

Slàinte Mhath!

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I’m the Crafty Traveler

I suppose you can also call me Brian. I love to experience life through one very specific (yet also vast) lens – food and beverage (actually beverage and food would be the better fitting order). If that is a passion of yours, we are in this together now. Join me as I share favorite places from my travels, overly fancy beer photos, and more. Behind every pint is another place to explore.

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