The Crafty Traveler

The Dublin Food & Drink Guide You Didn’t Know You Needed

Dublin is a dichotomy. When you think of the place, the word pub is where most minds go (I mean, you’re not wrong). Visions of Temple Bar dance in your dreams, but Dublin defies expectations. While pubs remain an important social institution (and don’t worry, I’ll send you to the proper ones), the culture here is far more diverse than you may think.

It’s a city where historic and contemporary energy exist side by side. Where you are just as likely to find a proper toastie as you are a Michelin star. Where folk music can be heard while bouncing around boutiques. High tea and high-level lattes are both on the table, and I love a city with options.

This effortless blend of energy has also brought about a culinary transformation, bringing options far beyond stews and soda bread (but you should still order those too). This blend of reverence and reinvention, lifted up by the friendliest of people you will find, should put Dublin on your travel wish list. Let’s pour you a pint.

As further proof of the duality of Dublin, this big city is surprisingly easy to navigate for a couple days. If you have on the right shoes, you can explore most of this place on foot (if the weather cooperates; pack a rain jacket). The key to this is a central starting point. The Westbury to the rescue. This classic hotel embodies the city. Irish hospitality, modern touches (like an on-site martini bar), and an unbeatable location to explore from.

For your first day of exploration, let’s build up some anticipation before your first pour (unless you did that in the airport, and if so – well done). Walk towards Trinity College to get some of that historic energy I mentioned. Before you see a sight, food always comes first with me. Bread 41 across the street from campus serves up the best pastries in town. Good luck picking one item (pro move – pick several and keep carbs in your pocket to soak up the upcoming suds). Walk a block to get your caffeine fix at Cloud Picker where on-site roasting and sustainability are the name of the game. Head into campus and use those tickets you bought before you left to see the Book of Kells Experience (amazing library, crazy history, other impressive stuff but there are other blogs out there for those details).

By now it’s lunch time. Let’s mash up those traditional and modern moods again and walk all the way across town to Fish Shop. A small unassuming spot serving up high-level fish and chips alongside a curated wine list that pairs perfectly (make reservations, when I say small, I mean it). The walk here is your longest of the trip but allows you to soak in the city.

You will walk through Temple Bar, but I don’t think you need to spend time here. I liken it to Times Square. You should see it, but I’m not going to use my stomach space for tourist traps. If you do need a pint, you will later pass by Brazen Head, the oldest pub in town. After lunch, if you want an idea of what the Irish craft beer scene is looking like, Fidelity Bar next door can make that introduction. By now I have made you wait long enough, it’s time to experience the lifeblood of Ireland – Guinness.

You may think that Guinness is a beer that is mostly drank outside of Ireland, but you’d be wrong. It is the way here. Walk into any pub and simply order a “pint” and a Guinness will be in hand shortly (after a short wait for a proper pour). Knowing this, it makes sense that Guinness built a temple to “the black stuff”, and this is one of those tourist traps that is worth embracing. Book your tickets beforehand to experience a seven-story celebration of this iconic beer. Move at your own pace (mine was fast, I was thirsty) but do stop at the “Stoutie” experience. It seems cheesy, but here they will literally print a picture of your face on top of a pint of Guinness (your new profile pic). Work your way to the top and get a bird’s eye view of Dublin from the sky bar alongside an unforgettable pint.

Now that we have moved into the fermentation part of the program, let’s get some whiskey in the mix. The history of Irish whiskey is fascinating. In the 18^th century, Irish whiskey was the most popular spirit in the world. Over time, this faded for a variety of reasons (prohibition, lack of embrace of new technology, trade and civil wars, etc.) driving production to the point where only a few distilleries existed by the mid-20^th century. Fortunately for our palettes, a comeback is underway. Teeling is one of the groups leading the charge. Combining tradition and family history with modern technology, you’re bound to find a pour here that changes your perception on what Irish whiskey can be.

With a buzz likely kicking in, it’s time for some of that Irish comfort food you’ve heard about (but make it elevated). A two-minute walk away takes you to Spitalfields, a spot with an old pub atmosphere bringing elevated takes to the classics (book that table early). I hope you traveled with friends as the bigger-than-your-face-sized cock-a-leekie pie is a must order alongside beef cheek filled parker house rolls (calories don’t count in Ireland). With a food coma likely ensuing, you must power through to end your night at a pub. Not all pubs are created equal here. For an authentic option, Fallon’s next door fits the bill as does The Long Hall, The Stag’s Head, or Kehoes in town (we are saving my favorite two for your grand finale).

Day 2 starts with a bit more history (pushing my limit here) at Kilmainham Goal. Book your tickets exactly 28 days out, because they really are that hard to snag. The old city jail provides a fascinating and efficient look into the history of Ireland (these people are tougher than I’ll ever be).

Head back into town for lunch as it’s time for dining at its finest – a ham and cheese toastie at Grogans. An authentic pub tucked alongside upscale shopping, a Guinness, sandwich, and crisps here is tough to beat. When you’re done (stay as long as you’d like), you can grab another curated coffee at Kaph, get Irish brown bread flavored ice cream at Murphys, go shopping on Grafton Street, or settle in for high tea at your hotel.

When dinnertime hits, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the options that surround you. For an open-fire inspired meal, Mister S is the move. If Indian food feels like the vibe, Pickle sets you up. If you’re in a Michelin star mood, try the refined yet relaxed tasting menu at Variety Jones. Or if neighborhood vibes and small plates scream to you, Bar Pez (same owners at Fish Shop) creates a welcoming and well executed end to your Dublin dining.

For your finale, my two favorite pubs are ready to be revealed (you’ve been patiently waiting). Right outside Temple Bar you can find one of the sweetest and smoothest pours of Guinness out there (not all pours are created equal) at Bowe’s. A warm and inviting atmosphere makes it taste that much better. Whiskey is now what you need to cap off your day, and there’s no better place than Palace Bar. Upon arrival, don’t go downstairs – find the staircase to the left and head up to Whiskey Palace (appropriately named) for some pours you can’t find anywhere else. End your night with a 20-year-old cask strength single barrel from Dunville’s (order anything you see from them while here) and enjoy your favorite pour of the trip. Now that’s timing.

Above all else, head to Dublin with no expectations and you will see how this place defies the stereotypes. Behind every pint is a place to explore and nowhere is that truer than right here.