The Crafty Traveler

Edinburgh is a movie set. A true painting come to life. Google image Edinburgh right now. Whatever picture you are looking at does not do justice to the real thing. An exquisite blend of history, culture, and architecture that must be seen to be believed, with a growing food and bev seen to match (that’s where I come in). A place that must move up your travel list, and when you get there, I got your back.

A couple days are not enough to take in everything this place has to offer, but it’s enough to absorb the vibe here (and if you’re doing Scotland right, this place is just a kickoff to exploring the rest of the country). Because your time is short, you need to pick a strategic spot to lay your head. Go with Market Street Hotel. Modern digs, rooftop breakfast, and a location that easily allows you to visit both new and old town. After check in, walk around the corner and grab a coffee at The Milkman. The clock starts now.

Not a shocker here, but day one is starting at a pub. As for the pub scene here, you have to be careful as tourist trap versions are quite easy to find. Authentic pubs are certainly here, and I will let you in on some of my favs. The first is Bow Bar. The beauty of this pub being your first stop, is that it is in the heart of old town, on one of the most tourist (and picturesque) streets in the city, Victoria Street. You are likely to walk this street at some point anyways (as you should), and now you know to pop in here for a cask ale, a dram, and a delicious pie (another reason you are coming here early, as those tend to sell out). When you wrap up, one more spot worth hitting on this street is I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger for the finest selection of Scottish cheese. Grab a scotch egg or chunk of cheddar to help power through your day.

Keep seeing the sights by walking down Grassmarket (don’t worry, this leads to more calories). This perfectly guides you to the iconic Mary’s Milk Bar for the best ice cream in the city. Odds are you will be looking at a line; it’s worth it. Grab a scoop, sit outside, and enjoy your cup alongside castle views. By now, your stomach may need a break. A couple of optional activities nearby would be to walk through Greyfriars Kirkyard (if you’re up for it, grab a pint at next door at Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar) or spend your afternoon at the National Museum of Scotland across the street (I hear some people like museums).

Now that you’ve had a break, if time permits, there are a few more old town spots to explore. Walk through Advocate’s Close to get an idea of how the old city was once setup (and stop in The Devil’s Advocate for a modern pub with an extensive whiskey list), hit up Salt Horse for one of the best craft beer selections in the city, or walk down The Royal Mile (and stop in Royal Mile Whiskies or Cadenhead’s for Scotch souvenirs). You’ve now had a long day, with likely several miles behind you. Hop in an uber and head to the Scran and Scallie for dinner, the casual sister restaurant of The Kitchin (one of Edinburgh’s top tables).  It brings you high-level, seasonal Scottish cuisine to cap your night. Imagine a pub and a Michelin chef having a baby.

For day 2, you would regret not hitting up Edinburgh Castle. It is worth fighting the crowds (but the earlier you can get there, the better). Plus, you will feel better after my day 2 schedule if you have burned off calories after breakfast. Hit up one of the above old town activities for lunch, and then it’s off to explore other neighborhoods. Take a couple hours and head out to Leith, a waterfront port neighborhood with a couple of my fav spots. Start with a beer at Newbarns Brewery. Insanely clean and drinkable pours in a simplistic setting. Nearby Campervan Brewery is also worth a stop if you have the time. Finish your quick Leith tour at Nauticus. A pub/cocktail bar hybrid that hits on all cylinders. Amazing atmosphere, curated tap list, unique single barrel scotches, in a playful yet modern atmosphere.

Your last evening is spent in New Town. From your hotel, walk past and admire the Scott Monument, and hit up The Guilford Arms for a pint. When you say the word pub in your head, this is what you think of. A beautiful Victorian bar with a cask ale in hand – this is Scotland. Other beverage options in the area include Bramble, an unpretentious hip hop den of a cocktail bar, or a pour from the insane collection at the Scotch Malt Whiskey Society. Walk west in the neighborhood for dinner at The Bon Vivant for cozy small plates and cocktails (other dinner options are Noto right next door for Asian-inspired small plates or Aizle for a modern tasting menu if you prefer). Your Edinburgh adventure then ends at Panda & Son’s. A hidden speakeasy (I will let you figure out what the entrance is) that is one of the top bars in the world. Cutting edge cocktails with advanced and unique techniques is the name of the game here. Order outside of the box, you’ve earned it. And if a nighttime pub crawl is still calling your name, other pubs in the city I like are The Queens Arms, Jolly Judge, The Abbortsford, The Oxford Bar, and Bennets Bar. You have now wrapped your first shot on this movie set. I know it won’t be your last.