The Crafty Traveler

When thinking through my years of overdue destination advice to share with you, I debated where to start. I could start at the beginning, but a few too many IPAs has me questioning where that would be. Instead I went with a trusted strategy – recency bias.

For anyone that has food and drink at the forefront of their travel agenda, I assume Mexico City is on your radar. It is a city that had been on my wish list for many years. For my recent birthday (that exact number is not relevant), I decided to cross this city off the list. And I did so in 2 days (as a heads up, I recommend more time than this).

When tackling Mexico City, the first step is to decide what section of the city to build your nest in. When you are in the most populous city in North America, location is everything. After an internal struggle, I decided on Roma Norte as home base, and I strongly recommend this neighborhood to you. Roma Norte is dotted with coffee shops, world class bars, and trendy spots for a bite without the feeling of being overdeveloped. It is also a strategic restaurant to explore other neighborhoods within a 20 minute uber ride (trust me, that is close for CDMX). We landed on Casa Izeba as our resting spot, a perfectly updated boutique guest house with minimal rooms with maximum impact. For breakfast, they serve pastries from the renowned Panaderia Rosetta without the line (and trust me, there is a line there at alllll times of the day).

On many of my itineraries, beer tends to be the theme – not here. I flew in to visit many of the world’s top cocktail bars (don’t take my word for it, check the list). Here are my thoughts on the big three that I hit:

Handshake Speakeasy: The world’s best bar perfectly sets the stage. Upon arrival, you are loudly greeted by the staff with an audible welcome. A much smaller space than expected, it’s an intimate vibe without feeling stuffy. The best part of the menu? Mini cocktails. A chance to order an “appetizer” while debating the rest of the menu, a concept others should adopt. While tasting through the rest of the menu, I found the drinks to not fully live up to the concepts. Butter mushrooms old fashioneds that become more savory than drinkable (but points for creativity). The one exception being a Mexi-Thai, a mash up of tequila, tomato, and basil that simply works. A bar that all should experience, but with an expectation of experience over ingredients.

Licoria Limantour: Upon walking up, I expected this to be my least favorite spot off the list (checking in at a measly #32 in the world), but I was wrong. Opposite of Handshake, the vibe here is one you would simply walk past without thinking twice. Mostly open to the street, it screams happy hour more than world class cocktails. Working your way through the menu will take a minute, but whatever you land on will not disappoint. Every drink we landed on here delivered a unique and balanced experience, a perfect reminder of not judging a book by its cover.

Hanky Panky: By far the most fun visit on the agenda, your visit will first require a game of “I Spy” to find it. The internet can likely help you on your search, but I recommend putting the address into your uber destination and attempting to find it on your own. Once you do, get ready for communal tables with a globally inspired menu. Cocktails inspired by destinations and bars from across the world, the strategy here is to go with a group to sample as much of the menu as possible. Hit or miss was the result of our journey, but when they hit they hit, and the exit strategy is the icing on the cake.

Between cocktails, food will also be necessary to hit multiple bars daily. Fortunately for you, they serve world class food here as well (again, not my words). Thoughts below on the next big three well known spots I hit between cocktails:

Quintonil: You would walk by the #7 spot in the world and think it is the lobby for a local condo complex. A simple overhang invites you to an understated spot to spend a few hours. Tasting menu only allows for no stress ordering. Much like Handshake, the atmosphere outweighed the experience a bit. No bite is underwhelming, but only a few bites leave an impact. Superb but not spectacular describes an enticing experience, if not one that sticks with you.

Pujol: Hype that delivers. I’ll be honest, I expected to be disappointed. I have seen Chef Enrique Olvera on so many TV shows at this point, I was fearful of a Wolfgang Punk airport experience (no shade intended to Wolfgang). I was wrong. An absolutely stunning facility sets the table (literally) for a memorable meal. Smoked baby corn with ant mayo, mole that is over 3,300 days old, and an outdoor lounge with can’t miss café de olla. Watch all the shows you want to, and then make a reservation (many months in advance).

Rosetta: Coming in at a measly number 34 in the world, here’s how I sum up this spot: Date Night. It’s not that the food didn’t deliver, but the space definitely did. Also as an important disclaimer, this was the last spot on the busy two-day schedule so stomach capacity was limited. The space is beautiful, and luckily for you as suggested you are staying in Roma Norte, so your room is two blocks away. Settle in, get a glass of wine from the developing Mexican wine region (Valle de Guadalupe-on my travel wish list), and share a few small plates. An intimate ending to an excellent two days of imbibing.

Bonuses:

Book yourself a tour with Eat Like a Local. I realize my above agenda is not the most accessible, so to see the city while getting awesome street eats, this tour will take care of you. As an added bonus, their mission is an admirable one, empowering young females with life skills and career path options. Your guide to navigate the local markets that locals call home.

I will always send you some beer options. Check out Malt Bunny Beer Shop for take home local suds. Drunkendog, Trappist, Bar a Bieres, Roma Brewing, and Moreno Tasting Room should all be on your radar for the best of Mexican craft brewing.

Other hodgepodge of spots you should google and consider on your own agenda: Contramar, Em, Taqueria Orinoco, Carinito Tacos, Tacos los Alexis, El Moro churros, Maximo Bistro, La Ventana del Ticuchi, Forte coffee, Tlecan mezcal bar, and 686 bar.

How to do this in 48 hours:

Day 1: Start with your food tour, an excellent way to get your bearings on the city along the way. Grab yourself a local draft afterwards at one of the above mentioned spots, shower up before happy hour at Handshake to kick off your evening, and end your evening at Quintonil for dinner.

Day 2: Free morning (this is when you could see one of those sites other people talks about), quick pit stop for a local latte to fuel your day, and follow that up with lunch at Pujol. Cross town to hit Hanky Panky at opening, followed by pre-dinner drinks at Limantour, and ending with late night bites at Rosetta (then stumble home). High level highlight tour of CDMX complete!